Campus board

Campus Board

A Campus Board is a training tool used primarily in the sport of rock climbing and bouldering. It consists of a series of horizontal rungs attached to an inclined board. The rungs vary in size, allowing for different levels of difficulty. The Campus Board was invented in 1988 by the legendary climber Wolfgang Güllich as a method to increase finger strength and power to prepare for the first ascent of the route Action Directe in the Frankenjura, Germany, which is considered one of the first routes graded at 9a (5.14d).

History

The Campus Board's invention is closely tied to the progression of sport climbing in the late 20th century. Wolfgang Güllich, recognizing the need for a new type of strength to conquer the increasingly difficult routes being established, created the Campus Board to specifically target the power and endurance required for high-level climbing. The name "Campus" comes from the "Campus Centre" in Nuremberg, Germany, where Güllich trained.

Design and Use

A typical Campus Board is set at an overhang of 10 to 20 degrees, although this can vary depending on the goals of the training session. The rungs are usually made of wood or a synthetic material that is gentle on the skin but provides sufficient grip. The spacing between the rungs is consistent to allow for measurable progression in training.

Climbers use the Campus Board without the assistance of their feet, "campusing" up and down the board to improve contact strength, power, and dynamic movement. Training on the Campus Board can be highly specific, with climbers often following structured routines to target their weaknesses.

Training Considerations

While the Campus Board is a powerful tool for improving climbing performance, it is also associated with a high risk of injury, particularly to the fingers, wrists, and shoulders. As such, it is recommended that only experienced climbers with a solid foundation of climbing-specific strength and technique use the Campus Board. Beginners or those new to climbing should focus on building a base level of strength and technique through climbing before incorporating Campus Board training into their regimen.

Variations

Over the years, variations of the Campus Board have been developed, including boards with adjustable angles, different rung shapes, and sizes, and the incorporation of LED lights and electronic tracking to create targeted training routines and track progress.

Impact on Climbing

The introduction of the Campus Board has had a significant impact on the sport of climbing, allowing climbers to push the boundaries of what is physically possible. It has become a staple in climbing gyms around the world and is credited with helping to advance the sport by preparing climbers for the physical demands of higher-grade routes.

See Also

• Rock Climbing
• Bouldering
• Climbing Gym
• Wolfgang Güllich
• Action Directe (climb)