Crack climbing

Trout creek stemming

Klim friends

Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing that focuses on ascending cracks and requires a specific set of techniques different from other forms of climbing. This discipline of climbing can be found in various climbing environments, including traditional climbing, big wall climbing, and bouldering. Crack climbing techniques are essential for climbers who wish to tackle a wide range of climbing challenges, as cracks are a common feature on natural rock faces.

Techniques

The key to successful crack climbing lies in the climber's ability to use their hands, feet, and sometimes other parts of the body to gain leverage within the crack. Techniques vary depending on the width of the crack:

• Finger cracks: Narrow cracks that are only wide enough for fingers. Climbers use techniques such as finger jamming, where fingers are inserted into the crack and then expanded or twisted to create friction.
• Hand cracks: These cracks are wide enough to fit an entire hand. Techniques include hand jamming, where the hand is inserted into the crack and then made into a fist to create a secure hold.
• Fist cracks: Wider than hand cracks, these require the climber to jam their entire fist into the crack to ascend.
• Offwidth cracks: These are too wide for fist jams but too narrow to climb inside. Climbers must use a combination of techniques, including arm barring and chicken winging, where arms or legs are used in a way to create friction against the sides of the crack.
• Chimney cracks: The widest cracks, where climbers can fit their entire body inside. Techniques involve pressing the back against one side of the crack and the feet against the other, then shuffling upwards.

Gear

Crack climbing often requires specific climbing gear to protect the climber from falls. This includes:

• Climbing shoes: Shoes with sticky rubber soles that help climbers gain traction on the rock.
• Climbing cams and nuts: Devices that can be placed in the crack to act as anchor points for the climber's safety rope.
• Climbing chalk: Used to improve grip by keeping the climber's hands dry.
• Tape gloves: Homemade gloves made from tape that protect the back of the climber's hands when jamming them into cracks.

Training and Safety

Crack climbing requires a significant amount of practice and physical conditioning. Climbers often train on artificial cracks in climbing gyms to develop the necessary skills and strength. Safety is paramount, and climbers must learn proper gear placement and rope management techniques to prevent injuries from falls.

Popular Crack Climbing Locations

Some of the most renowned crack climbing locations include:

• Yosemite National Park, USA: Known for its big wall climbs and iconic cracks like those found on El Capitan.
• Indian Creek, USA: A desert climbing area famous for its abundance of high-quality sandstone cracks.
• Squamish, British Columbia, Canada: Offers a variety of crack climbs on granite rock.

See Also

• Bouldering
• Traditional climbing
• Sport climbing
• Big wall climbing

‎