Hákarl

Hákarl hanging to dry in Iceland

Hákarl, often referred to as fermented shark, stands as a traditional Icelandic delicacy known for its robust and unique flavor profile. Created from the meat of the Greenland shark, the preparation of hákarl involves a distinctive fermentation and drying methodology. Hákarl occupies a revered spot within Icelandic cultural and culinary traditions, serving as a testament to the nation's rich historical practices.

History

Originating in the 9th century, the practice of consuming hákarl has been deeply ingrained in Icelandic culture. The technique of fermenting and preserving the shark meat emerged as a necessity, primarily to ensure a consistent food source throughout the severe Icelandic winters when fresh fish availability dwindled. This culinary legacy, handed down across generations, ensures that hákarl remains an integral element of Iceland's gastronomic tradition.

Hákarl is a crucial component of þorramatur, a compilation of traditional Icelandic dishes typically showcased during the midwinter festival, þorrablót. Regardless of the season, it remains a staple, available ubiquitously across Icelandic stores.

Consumption

Choosing rotten shark over its fresh counterpart is imperative. Fresh Greenland shark meat harbors toxins, chiefly due to high concentrations of urea and trimethylamine oxide, rendering it poisonous. However, post the necessary processing, the shark meat becomes safe for consumption. The curing process efficiently purges the uric acid within the flesh, making it palatable.

A notable feature of hákarl is its overpowering ammonia aroma, reminiscent of several household cleaners. It is conventionally served in small cube portions, skewered on toothpicks. The potency of the ammonia often induces gagging, especially in those trying it for the first time. As a pro-tip, novices are recommended to hold their noses while sampling their initial bite, as the scent considerably overpowers the flavor. Hákarl is traditionally complemented with a shot of brennivín, a native Icelandic spirit akin to akvavit. Consuming hákarl often symbolizes resilience and fortitude.

Two distinct varieties exist:

• Glerhákarl (literally "glassy shark"): This variant from the shark's belly has a chewy texture and a reddish hue.
• Skyrhákarl (literally "skyr shark"): Procured from the shark's body, it boasts a softer texture and a white appearance.

Preparation

The traditional method involves gutting and decapitating either a Greenland or basking shark. The cleaned carcass is then placed in a shallow gravel-filled pit, ensuring the cleaned cavity rests atop a small sand hillock. This assembly is then cloaked in layers of sand and gravel, weighed down with stones to extract bodily fluids and initiate fermentation. Depending on the season, the fermentation lasts anywhere from 6 to 12 weeks.

Post-fermentation, the shark meat is sliced into strips and left to air-dry for several months. This drying phase results in the formation of a brownish crust, which is meticulously removed before the shark is diced into bite-sized chunks for serving. Contemporary techniques often involve pressing the shark meat within large, drainage-equipped plastic containers.

Visitors keen on observing this age-old preparation method can visit the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum located in Snæfellsnes.

Reactions

The distinct flavor of hákarl often elicits strong reactions:

• Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain dubbed hákarl as "the single worst, most disgusting and terrible tasting thing" he had sampled.
• In an episode of The F Word, Gordon Ramsay spat out hákarl after trying it, while James May managed to swallow it, albeit with minimal enthusiasm. May commented, "You disappoint me, Ramsay."
• Andrew Zimmern, in the Iceland-themed episode of Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern on the Travel Channel, likened the odor of hákarl to "some of the most horrific things I've ever breathed in my life." Despite this, Zimmern mentioned that the taste was relatively milder in comparison but stressed that hákarl was "hardcore food" and "not for beginners."

See Also

• Icelandic cuisine
• Traditional foods
• Fermentation (food)
• Brennivín