Hair jewellery

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Mrs. Gabriel Manigault (Margaret Izard) MET DP169297

Hair jewellery is a form of jewellery that incorporates human hair as a primary material. This unique form of adornment has a rich history, dating back to the Victorian era, but its origins can be traced even further to various cultures around the world. Hair jewellery served multiple purposes, from sentimental keepsakes to fashion statements, and it remains a niche interest in contemporary jewelry making.

History

The practice of making jewellery out of hair dates back centuries, with evidence of hairwork found in various cultures, including Ancient Egypt, Viking artifacts, and among the Victorians. In the Victorian era, hair jewellery became particularly popular, often used as mourning jewellery to remember and honor the deceased. This was partly due to Queen Victoria's influence, who wore a locket of Prince Albert's hair after his death, sparking a widespread trend. Hair was also exchanged between friends and lovers as tokens of affection, woven into rings, bracelets, necklaces, and brooches.

Techniques

Creating hair jewellery involves several intricate techniques, including braiding, weaving, and encasing hair in metal or glass. The hair used could be from a living person or from the deceased, depending on the piece's intended purpose. One common technique was tablework, where hair was woven on a table fitted with clamps and weights, creating intricate patterns for bracelets and necklaces. Another method involved palette work, where hair was laid flat, cut into shapes, and then incorporated into lockets or brooches, often under glass to protect the delicate designs.

Materials and Design

The materials used in hair jewellery besides human hair included gold, silver, jet, and other metals for clasps and settings, as well as precious stones to embellish the pieces. The designs varied widely, from simple, elegant pieces meant for everyday wear to elaborate creations for special occasions. Mourning pieces often featured somber motifs, such as skulls, crosses, and weeping willows, while friendship and love tokens might include hearts, clasped hands, and flowers.

Contemporary Interest

Today, hair jewellery is less common but has seen a resurgence among artisans and collectors who appreciate its historical significance and unique beauty. Modern hair jewellery artists continue to use traditional techniques while also experimenting with new styles and materials. The art form is celebrated for its personalization and the intimate connection it creates between the wearer and the person whose hair is featured in the piece.

Preservation

Preserving hair jewellery involves protecting it from direct sunlight, moisture, and extreme temperatures, which can degrade the hair and materials over time. Collectors and museums specializing in historical jewellery often keep these pieces in controlled environments to ensure their longevity.

Cultural Significance

Hair jewellery holds different meanings across cultures, often reflecting themes of love, loss, and memory. Its creation and use underscore the human desire to maintain a physical connection to those we cherish, transcending time and death. The practice highlights the intimate and personal nature of jewellery, elevating it from mere decoration to a deeply meaningful symbol.