Perm (hairstyle)

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Lars Jacob 1972 Miami Beach

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Eugene shown in 1920 advert

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First permanent-waving heaters designed by Calvete in 1917

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Icall Machine 1920

Perm is a hairstyle that involves the use of chemicals to break and reform the bonding of the hair structure. The hair is then set into curls or waves, and a neutralizer is applied to re-bond the structure of the hair, resulting in a change in hair texture that can last for several months. The term "perm" is derived from the word "permanent," reflecting the durable nature of the hairstyle. Perms can be applied using various techniques to achieve different textures, from tight curls to loose waves.

History

The concept of perming hair dates back to the early 20th century, with the invention of the first chemical perm by Karl Nessler in 1905. This early method used harsh chemicals and heat, making it a risky process for the hair and scalp. Over the decades, the technology and chemicals used for perming hair have significantly evolved, making the process safer and more varied in terms of possible outcomes.

Types of Perms

There are two main types of perms: digital perms and cold perms.

Digital Perm

A digital perm uses heat and specially formulated solutions to create curls. The process often involves the use of a machine that regulates the temperature, ensuring that the heat is evenly distributed throughout the hair. This type of perm is popular in Asia and is known for producing softer, looser curls that are more prominent when the hair is dry.

Cold Perm

A cold perm, on the other hand, does not use heat during the process. Instead, the hair is soaked with a solution that breaks down the hair's structure, then wrapped around curling rods and treated with a neutralizing solution. Cold perms generally produce tighter curls and are more traditional in method.

Procedure

The perm process typically begins with a consultation to determine the desired outcome and assess the hair's condition. The hair is then washed and wrapped around curling rods or rollers, and the perm solution is applied. After the solution has processed, it is rinsed out, and a neutralizer is applied to re-form the hair's bonds in their new shape. The rods are then removed, and the hair is styled.

Care and Maintenance

Permed hair requires special care to maintain its texture and health. This includes using sulfate-free shampoos, deep conditioning treatments, and avoiding excessive heat styling. Regular trims are also recommended to keep the curls looking fresh.

Risks and Considerations

While modern perms are safer than their early counterparts, the process still involves chemicals that can damage the hair if not done correctly. It is essential to have a perm done by a professional stylist and to consider the hair's condition and texture before deciding on this treatment. Overprocessing can lead to dry, brittle hair and scalp irritation.

Cultural Impact

Perms have had various peaks of popularity throughout the decades, often associated with certain fashion trends and cultural movements. In the 1980s, for example, perms were widely popular among both men and women, symbolizing a bold and extravagant aesthetic.