Ruff (clothing)

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The Regentesses of St Elizabeth Hospital, Haarlem (detail) by Verspronck

Ruff (clothing)

A ruff is an item of clothing worn around the neck, originating in the mid-16th century in Western Europe. It is a distinct historical fashion accessory, characterized by its pleated or goffered fabric, which was starched to hold its shape. The ruff is most commonly associated with the Elizabethan era and early Jacobean era in England, but it was also popular in other parts of Europe, such as Spain, France, and the Netherlands.

History

The ruff evolved from the small fabric ruffle at the neck of the shirt or chemise in the early 16th century to a separate garment by the mid-century. Its purpose was both decorative and practical; it served to cover the neck to keep warm and to hide the upper garment's fastenings, which were considered unsightly or unclean. The ruff became a symbol of wealth and status, as only those who could afford the expensive fabrics and the services of a skilled laundress or a professional starcher could maintain them in the fashion required by social status.

Materials and Construction

Ruffs were made from fine linen or lace, and their size and elaborateness varied over time and according to the wearer's social status. The fabric was pleated using a technique called "goffering," and then starched to hold the pleats. The starch used was sometimes colored, leading to ruffs of different hues, although white was the most common. A supportasse or underpropper was often worn beneath the ruff to hold it at the desired angle away from the face.

Fashion and Variations

The size of the ruff grew from a modest beginning to reach extreme dimensions in both width and depth by the late 16th century. Some ruffs required a wire frame or supportasse to maintain their shape. The fashion for ruffs began to decline in the early 17th century, being replaced by simpler forms of neckwear such as the falling band.

Cultural Significance

The ruff is an iconic symbol of the Elizabethan era, embodying the period's extravagance and attention to elaborate personal adornment. It has been depicted in numerous portraits of the time, notably those by Elizabethan and Jacobean artists such as Nicholas Hilliard and Peter Paul Rubens. The ruff has also been a popular element in the portrayal of Elizabethan characters in film and theatre productions.

Legacy

Although no longer a part of contemporary fashion, the ruff remains a subject of interest for historians, fashion enthusiasts, and costume designers. It is often recreated for historical reenactments, period dramas, and other forms of cultural representation that seek to capture the essence of the 16th and early 17th centuries.