Bustle

Bustle c. 1885

USpatent63234 1867

English bustles 1875-1885 LACMA

Bustle

USpatent131840 1872

Bustle is a framework used to support the drapery and shape of women's dresses, particularly to hold the skirt away from the body for fashionable reasons. Originating in the late 18th century, the bustle became a prominent fashion item in the 19th century, especially during the 1870s and 1880s, when it was used to add volume and shape to the back of a woman's dress.

History

The use of structures to support the drapery of dresses has been a part of fashion history since ancient times. However, the bustle specifically emerged in the late 18th century as a continuation of the trend for larger, more voluminous skirts. The early versions were simple padded rolls worn under the skirt. By the mid-19th century, the crinoline, a large, stiff petticoat designed to hold the skirt out in a circular shape, was in fashion. As the crinoline fell out of favor, the bustle emerged as a more practical and less cumbersome alternative.

In the 1870s, the bustle evolved into a more structured device, with steel hoops and horsehair padding creating the desired shape. This period saw the bustle at its most exaggerated form, with dresses featuring large protrusions at the rear. The fashion for bustles went through several phases, with the size and shape changing over the years. By the late 1880s, the bustle began to fall out of fashion, and by the early 20th century, it was no longer a staple of women's fashion.

Design and Construction

The design of the bustle varied over time, but it generally consisted of a framework that could be made from various materials, including steel hoops, whalebone, or horsehair. This framework was covered with fabric and attached to the waist of the wearer, either as a separate piece or as part of the dress itself. The primary purpose of the bustle was to shape the skirt in a way that emphasized the waist and the posterior, creating a silhouette that was considered fashionable and desirable at the time.

Cultural Significance

The bustle was more than just a fashion statement; it also reflected the social and cultural attitudes of the time. The exaggerated shapes created by the bustle were seen as symbols of femininity and status. The ability to wear such elaborate and often cumbersome garments indicated a woman's social standing, as they were impractical for work or for those of lower economic classes. The bustle also played into the idealized standards of beauty of the time, emphasizing a curvaceous figure.

Modern Use

While the bustle is no longer a part of everyday fashion, it has not disappeared entirely. It is still used in historical reenactment, theatrical costumes, and haute couture fashion. Modern interpretations of the bustle can be seen on the high fashion runways, where designers often draw inspiration from historical garments to create contemporary looks.

See Also

• Fashion history
• Crinoline
• Victorian fashion
• Dress code