Dolly Varden (costume)

Dolly Varden Quadrille music sheet cover

Dolly Varden is a style of women's fashion that emerged in the late 19th century, specifically around the 1860s and 1870s. Named after a character in Charles Dickens' novel Barnaby Rudge, the Dolly Varden costume is characterized by its bright, colorful patterns and its somewhat nostalgic reference to 18th-century dress styles. This fashion trend reflects the Victorian era's fascination with historical clothing and the romanticization of the past.

History and Description

The character Dolly Varden in Dickens' novel was depicted as wearing a vividly printed muslin dress, which captured the imagination of the public and fashion designers of the time. The costume typically features a wide, bell-shaped skirt reminiscent of the 18th-century polonaise, paired with a tight bodice and often accessorized with a large, wide-brimmed hat decorated with flowers or ribbons. The ensemble emphasized an idealized, romantic vision of the countryside and pastoral life, aligning with the broader Victorian trend of romanticizing rural England.

Cultural Significance

The Dolly Varden costume became a symbol of playful femininity and was often worn at garden parties, picnics, and other social gatherings during the Victorian era. Its popularity also coincided with the rise of the crinoline, which provided the wide, bell-shaped silhouette that was essential to the Dolly Varden look. However, by the end of the 1870s, the fashion began to wane as tastes shifted towards the more streamlined and less voluminous bustle styles.

In Popular Culture

The Dolly Varden costume has made appearances in various forms of popular culture, including theater and early cinema. It has also been referenced in fashion revivals, particularly during periods of interest in vintage and historical styles. The enduring appeal of the Dolly Varden style lies in its whimsical, overtly feminine aesthetic and its connection to a nostalgic view of the past.

See Also

• Victorian fashion
• Crinoline
• Polonaise (clothing)
• Bustle (dress)