Ice axe

Ice axe

Ice axe ski basket

Ice axe pick & adze protector

Jacques Balmat 2

Travellers' Axe - Project Gutenberg eText 14861

Ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and mountaineering tool used by mountaineers both in the ascent and descent of routes that involve frozen conditions with snow and ice. An ice axe assists in various ways: as a walking aid, as a tool for cutting steps, anchoring to arrest a fall, and in steep sections, it can be used for both ascending and descending by ice climbing techniques.

History

The ice axe originated in the Alps for use in traditional alpine mountaineering. Early versions were simply modified versions of the woodman's axe, but over time, the design was refined to meet the specific needs of mountaineers. The modern ice axe has evolved significantly from its rudimentary predecessors, incorporating advanced materials and design features to increase its effectiveness and versatility in the mountain environment.

Design

A typical ice axe consists of a head with a pick and an adze, a spike at the bottom of the shaft, and a straight or slightly curved shaft made of metal or composite materials. The pick is the toothed part used for anchoring and climbing, while the adze is used for cutting steps in hard snow and ice. The spike, or ferrule, at the bottom of the shaft, provides additional stability when used as a walking stick.

Components

• Head: The upper part, including the pick and the adze.
• Shaft: The long part of the axe, which can be straight or slightly curved.
• Spike (Ferrule): The pointed end of the shaft, used for stability on snow or ice.

Types

There are several types of ice axes, each designed for specific uses:

• Basic Ice Axe: Used for general mountaineering, especially on less steep terrain.
• Technical Ice Axe: Designed for technical climbing, with a more curved shaft and aggressive pick for ice climbing.
• Hybrid Ice Axes: Combine features of both basic and technical axes, offering versatility.

Use

The primary use of an ice axe is for safety in mountainous and icy terrain. It serves as a third point of contact when traversing steep, snowy, or icy slopes and can be used for self-arrest, a technique to stop oneself from sliding down a slope. Additionally, ice axes are used in constructing snow anchors and belays in technical mountaineering and ice climbing.

Self-Arrest Technique

Self-arrest is a critical skill involving the use of the ice axe to stop a fall on a snow-covered slope. The technique requires the climber to quickly position the axe and their body to dig into the snow, effectively braking the fall.

Safety

Proper use and handling of an ice axe are essential for safety. Mountaineers must be trained in its use, especially in self-arrest techniques, to prevent accidents. Regular maintenance, such as sharpening the pick and adze, is also important to ensure the effectiveness of the ice axe in critical situations.

See Also

• Mountaineering
• Ice climbing
• Alpinism