Kundan

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Kundan is a traditional form of Indian gemstone jewellery involving a gem set with a gold foil between the stones and its mount, usually for elaborate necklaces. The method is believed to have originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is one of the older forms of jewellery made and worn in India. The word kundan means highly refined gold, and a highly pure form of molten gold is used.

History

Kundan jewellery has its origins in the early Mughal Empire, where it was a favourite of the royalty. The art flourished under Mughal patronage, but it also received significant attention from the Rajasthani courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Over time, the craft of kundan jewellery spread to other regions of India, with local variations emerging.

Technique

The process of creating kundan jewellery is intricate and involves several stages. Firstly, the frame or skeleton of the piece is made with high-quality gold. Then, pieces of gemstones are set on the gold frame with the help of gold foil. This not only secures the gemstones in place but also enhances their appearance by reflecting light. The technique requires high skill and precision, traditionally carried out by skilled artisans known as kaarigars.

Designs and Variations

Kundan jewellery is renowned for its elaborate designs, often featuring floral and geometric patterns. It commonly includes necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, and headpieces such as Maang Tikka. The jewellery pieces are usually crafted as part of a set, designed to be worn together for a cohesive look.

While traditional kundan jewellery is quite heavy and elaborate, contemporary variations are available that cater to modern tastes, offering lighter and more minimalist designs. These pieces still retain the essence of kundan work but are more suited to everyday wear or less formal occasions.

Cultural Significance

Kundan jewellery holds a significant place in Indian weddings and festivities. It is considered a symbol of prestige and heritage, often passed down through generations as heirlooms. The craftsmanship of kundan jewellery is also a reflection of India's rich history of jewellery making and its cultural diversity.

Preservation and Challenges

The art of making kundan jewellery faces challenges in modern times, including competition from machine-made jewellery and a diminishing number of skilled artisans. Efforts are being made to preserve this traditional art form through workshops, training programs, and by promoting it at national and international levels.

See Also

• Jewellery of India
• Mughal Empire
• Rajasthan
• Gujarat