Piton

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Climbing gear - Seneca Rocks pitons - 20

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Piton Crack Eiger

Piton refers to a piece of climbing equipment used by mountaineers, rock climbers, and cavers to aid in ascending or descending a route. It is a metal spike that is driven into cracks or seams in the climbing surface with a hammer to create an anchor point. Pitons are part of the broader category of climbing equipment known as protection, which climbers use to prevent falls or to minimize the distance they might fall.

Types of Pitons

There are several types of pitons, each designed for specific types of cracks and rock quality:

• Soft Pitons: Made from softer metals, these pitons are intended for use in softer rock types where a harder piton might cause damage. They can deform to fit the rock better.
• Hard Pitons: Constructed from harder metals, these are suitable for use in harder rock types. They are less likely to deform upon impact.
• Angle Pitons: These are shaped like an 'L' or a 'V' and are designed for larger cracks. Their shape allows them to be wedged into places where a straight piton would not hold.
• Knifeblade Pitons: Also known as "bugaboos," these are thin and are used for very narrow cracks. They are named for their knife-like shape.
• Ring Pitons: These pitons have a ring on the end for attaching a carabiner. They are often used for piton belays or for fixed anchors on a route.

Usage

Pitons are driven into cracks in the rock with a hammer and then attached to a climbing rope via a carabiner. The climber then ascends or descends, using the piton as a point of protection against a fall. After use, pitons can sometimes be removed and reused, though this process can damage the rock and the piton itself, especially if the piton has become firmly wedged into the crack.

Controversy and Environmental Impact

The use of pitons has been a subject of controversy within the climbing community due to their environmental impact. Driving pitons into rock can cause significant damage, including cracking and erosion of the rock surface. This has led to the development and increased use of less invasive climbing protection, such as camming devices and nuts, which can be placed and removed without harming the rock.

In many climbing areas, the use of pitons is restricted or banned outright to preserve the natural rock formations. Climbers are encouraged to practice "clean climbing" techniques, using removable protection wherever possible.

See Also

• Climbing equipment
• Rock climbing
• Mountaineering
• Caving

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