Simul climbing

A Mazamas class practices a running belay on Hardy Ridge in Beacon Rock State Park

Giovanni Ongaro San Lorenzo

Simul climbing, also known as simultaneous climbing, is a climbing technique where two climbers move together at the same time while rock climbing or mountaineering. This method is distinct from traditional belaying techniques where one climber moves while the other belays. Simul climbing is often used in situations where speed is essential, such as long multi-pitch routes or when trying to ascend and descend a peak in a single day.

Overview

In simul climbing, both climbers are tied into the same rope, with one leading and the other following. The leader places protection (such as cams, nuts, or fixed protection like bolts) which the follower removes as they ascend. Both climbers must move with caution, as a fall from the leader could pull the follower off the wall if not properly managed. To mitigate this risk, climbers often use techniques such as placing more protection, using terrain features for natural protection, and maintaining constant communication.

Techniques and Equipment

The key to successful simul climbing is the efficient placement and removal of protection. Climbers must have a solid understanding of gear placement and the ability to assess the quality of protection quickly. The leader must place gear in such a way that it is effective yet easy for the follower to remove. Additionally, the use of a running belay, where the rope runs through protection points without being directly secured, is common.

Equipment specific to simul climbing includes:

• Lightweight harnesses
• A dynamic climbing rope of sufficient length
• A selection of protection gear (cams, nuts, etc.)
• Personal anchor systems or slings for transitions
• Helmets for both climbers

Safety Considerations

Simul climbing carries inherent risks, as a fall from either climber can have serious consequences. It is crucial that both climbers have a strong foundation in climbing techniques, gear placement, and risk assessment. Additionally, climbers should:

• Choose routes within their skill level
• Continuously assess the quality of protection and rock
• Communicate effectively throughout the climb
• Be prepared to transition to traditional belaying if the situation becomes too risky

Applications

Simul climbing is particularly useful in alpine environments where climbers face long routes and limited daylight. It allows for rapid ascension and descent, which can be critical for avoiding hazards such as rockfall, icefall, or inclement weather. However, it is also used in traditional rock climbing on long multi-pitch routes where speed is a priority.

Conclusion

Simul climbing is a technique that allows climbers to move more quickly than traditional belaying methods but requires a high level of skill, experience, and trust between partners. When executed properly, it can be an efficient way to tackle long routes in a short period. However, climbers must always weigh the benefits against the potential risks and be prepared to adjust their strategy as conditions dictate.

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