Spring-loaded camming device

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Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 29

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Spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) is a type of climbing equipment used in rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering to protect climbers from falls. It consists of multiple cams mounted on a common axle or stem, with a trigger mechanism to retract the cams. When the trigger is released, the cams expand and press against the rock walls of a crack, using friction to stay in place. This allows climbers to ascend or descend with a safety measure in place that can be easily moved and adjusted.

History

The concept of the spring-loaded camming device was pioneered in the 1970s by Ray Jardine, an American climber and engineer. His invention, known as the "Friend," revolutionized rock climbing, allowing climbers to safely protect themselves in situations where traditional pitons or nuts could not be used. Since then, various manufacturers have developed their own versions of the SLCD, with improvements in design, weight, and range of use.

Design and Function

A typical SLCD consists of a set of two to four cams mounted on a central stem, with a trigger mechanism to control the expansion and contraction of the cams. The device is placed into a rock crack with the cams retracted. Once in position, the trigger is released, allowing the cams to expand until they press against the rock faces. The unique design of the cams allows them to exert a significant amount of outward force, ensuring the device remains securely in place under load.

The effectiveness of an SLCD depends on the angle of the cams, known as the camming angle. This angle is critical for ensuring the device can both hold a fall and be retrieved easily by the climber. Most devices use a camming angle between 13.75 degrees to 17 degrees, balancing holding power with ease of removal.

Types of SLCDs

SLCDs come in various sizes to accommodate different crack widths. They are typically color-coded for easy identification. Some common types include:

- Single-stem SLCDs: These have a flexible stem, which makes them suitable for use in irregular or horizontal cracks. - Dual-stem SLCDs: These have two parallel stems, offering more stability in straight cracks but less flexibility than single-stem models. - Offset SLCDs: These have cams of different sizes on the same device, designed for use in flared or uneven cracks.

Usage

To use an SLCD, a climber must select a device that matches the size of the crack. The device is then inserted into the crack with the cams retracted. Once in place, the climber releases the trigger, allowing the cams to expand and secure the device. A carabiner is then attached to the SLCD's loop, and the climber's rope is clipped into the carabiner.

Safety Considerations

While SLCDs are a reliable form of protection, their effectiveness can be compromised by incorrect placement, rock quality, or over-reliance. Climbers must be trained in proper placement techniques and always assess the rock's integrity before placing an SLCD.

See Also

• Climbing equipment
• Traditional climbing
• Lead climbing
• Rock climbing techniques