Surfing

Ítalo Ferreira durante a competição

Huanchaco

Surf-riding 1858

Essie Harris Surfs the cold waters of Morro Bay, CA 14 Oct 2009

Tandem surfing, California, 2008-07-20

Pipeline Barrel (51633882)

Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but can also be found in lakes or rivers in the form of a standing wave or tidal bore. However, surfers can also utilize artificial waves such as those from boat wakes and the waves created in artificial wave pools.

History

The history of surfing dates back to the ancient Polynesian cultures that first described the act of riding waves on wooden boards. The practice was first observed by European explorers in the late 18th century in Hawaii, a place that has since become synonymous with the sport. Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture and was not just a pastime but also an important aspect of ritual and social hierarchy. The modern sport of surfing, however, began to take shape in the early 20th century, primarily in Hawaii, Australia, and California, where a blend of Hawaiian traditions and modern innovations led to the development of contemporary surfing culture.

Equipment

Surfing requires several key pieces of equipment, most notably the surfboard, which is the essential item for riding waves. Surfboards come in various shapes and sizes, tailored to the style of surfing and the level of the surfer. Other equipment includes the wetsuit for warmth in cold water, the leash (to attach the surfboard to the surfer), and surf wax, which helps to provide grip on the board.

Techniques

Surfing techniques vary depending on the type of surfing being performed. The basic technique involves paddling with one's hands to catch a wave, then standing up on the surfboard and riding the wave towards the shore. Advanced techniques include maneuvers such as the cutback (turning the board back towards the breaking part of the wave), the floater (riding on the top of the breaking wave), and the tube ride (riding inside the barrel of the wave).

Culture

Surfing culture has evolved significantly over the years, encompassing not just the sport itself but also music, fashion, literature, and film. The surfer lifestyle is often associated with a laid-back, beach-oriented life. Surfing has also had a significant impact on popular culture, with films like The Endless Summer and music from bands like The Beach Boys contributing to the mainstream appeal of the surfing lifestyle.

Competitions

Surfing competitions have been a part of the sport since the early 20th century. These events range from local and amateur contests to professional world championship tours. The most prestigious of these is the World Surf League (WSL), which hosts competitions around the world featuring the top professional surfers.

Environmental Considerations

Surfing also has an environmental aspect, as the sport is directly dependent on the health of the ocean and coastal areas. Surfers often take part in environmental conservation efforts, including beach cleanups and campaigns against coastal development and pollution.

See Also

• Water sports
• Wave pool
• Wind surfing
• Kite surfing