Breaking wave
Breaking wave is a phenomenon that occurs when a wave traveling in the open ocean interacts with the sea floor in shallow water. This interaction causes the wave to slow down, increase in height, and eventually break, releasing energy in the form of turbulent water and sound. Breaking waves are a key factor in the formation of beaches and other coastal features, and they play a crucial role in the dynamics of the nearshore environment.
Types of Breaking Waves[edit | edit source]
There are three main types of breaking waves: spilling, plunging, and surging.
- Spilling waves occur when the ocean floor has a gentle slope. The crest of the wave becomes unstable and spills down the front of the wave, creating a frothy, white water surface. This type of wave is common on flat, sandy beaches.
- Plunging waves occur when the ocean floor has a moderate to steep slope. The crest of the wave curls over the front of the wave and plunges downward, creating a tube or "barrel" that surfers often seek to ride. This type of wave is common on steep, rocky coastlines.
- Surging waves occur when the ocean floor has a very steep slope. The wave does not break but surges up the beach face, often causing strong backwash. This type of wave is common on steep, narrow beaches.
Formation of Breaking Waves[edit | edit source]
Breaking waves are formed by the interaction of a wave with the sea floor. As a wave travels into shallower water, the bottom of the wave slows down due to friction with the sea floor. This causes the top of the wave to continue moving at its original speed, which results in the wave increasing in height and eventually breaking.
The shape and type of a breaking wave is determined by the slope of the sea floor and the characteristics of the incoming wave, including its height, period, and direction.
Effects of Breaking Waves[edit | edit source]
Breaking waves have a number of effects on the coastal environment. They are a major source of erosion, transporting sediment from the beach and depositing it offshore. They also play a key role in the formation of coastal features such as sandbars, beaches, and dunes.
In addition, breaking waves are a significant source of noise in the ocean, and they can cause damage to man-made structures such as seawalls and piers.
See Also[edit | edit source]
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