Charles Snead Houston

Charles S Houston 2008

Charles Snead Houston (August 24, 1913 – September 27, 2009) was an American physician, mountaineer, and high-altitude medicine researcher. He is best known for his pioneering work in the field of mountaineering and his significant contributions to the understanding of altitude sickness.

Early Life and Education

Charles Snead Houston was born in New York City, New York. He attended Harvard University, where he developed an interest in mountaineering. After completing his undergraduate studies, he went on to study medicine at Columbia University College of Physicians and Surgeons.

Mountaineering Career

Houston's mountaineering career began in the 1930s. He was a member of the 1936 Nanda Devi expedition, which successfully reached the summit of the then-highest climbed peak in the world. In 1938, he led the first American expedition to K2, the second-highest mountain in the world. Although the team did not reach the summit, they established a new route and set a high point record for the mountain.

In 1953, Houston led another expedition to K2, which became famous for the dramatic and harrowing retreat known as the "K2 Tragedy." The team was caught in a severe storm at high altitude, and despite their best efforts, one member, Art Gilkey, died. The expedition is remembered for the extraordinary teamwork and heroism displayed by the climbers.

Contributions to High-Altitude Medicine

Houston's experiences on high-altitude expeditions fueled his interest in the physiological effects of high altitude on the human body. He conducted extensive research on altitude sickness, pulmonary edema, and other altitude-related conditions. His work has been instrumental in developing protocols for the prevention and treatment of these conditions.

Later Life and Legacy

After retiring from active mountaineering, Houston continued to contribute to the field of high-altitude medicine. He authored several books and numerous scientific papers on the subject. Houston's work has had a lasting impact on both the medical and mountaineering communities.

Charles Snead Houston passed away on September 27, 2009, leaving behind a legacy of exploration, scientific inquiry, and a deeper understanding of the challenges faced by high-altitude climbers.

Selected Works

• Going Higher: Oxygen, Man, and Mountains (1987)
• Five Miles High (1939, co-authored with members of the 1938 K2 expedition)
• K2: The Savage Mountain (1954, co-authored with Robert H. Bates)

See Also

• Mountaineering
• Altitude sickness
• K2
• Nanda Devi
• Pulmonary edema