Dry-tooling

2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour Cheongsong - 220

Jeff Mercier - DTS Tour 2014 Final, 29th November 2014 (4)

Angelika Rainer Marmolada 1

Dry-tooling is a form of climbing that involves using ice climbing equipment, such as ice axes and crampons, to ascend rock faces that are not covered in ice or snow. This technique allows climbers to practice their ice climbing skills in conditions that do not necessarily involve ice, making it a versatile training method as well as a competitive sport in its own right. Dry-tooling combines elements of rock climbing, mountaineering, and ice climbing, requiring a unique set of skills and techniques.

History

Dry-tooling evolved from traditional ice climbing as climbers sought ways to navigate terrain that was too difficult to climb with standard rock climbing gear but did not have enough ice to support ice climbing equipment. It has grown in popularity since the 1990s, with climbers pushing the boundaries of what is possible with their gear on rock surfaces.

Technique

The technique for dry-tooling involves using the pick of an ice axe to hook onto rock features such as edges, cracks, and even small holes. The front points of the crampons are also used to gain purchase on small rock features, allowing climbers to ascend steep or overhanging routes that would be difficult or impossible to climb using traditional rock climbing techniques alone.

Equipment

The equipment used in dry-tooling is similar to that used in ice climbing. This includes:

• Ice axes: Specifically designed for climbing, with a curved shaft and a sharp pick.
• Crampons: Attached to the climber's boots, providing additional traction and the ability to hook onto rock features.
• Climbing harness: Used to secure the climber to the rope.
• Climbing helmet: Essential for protecting the climber from falling debris or in case of a fall.
• Climbing ropes and protection devices: Used for safety, allowing the climber to be belayed from below.

Safety

While dry-tooling can be an exhilarating sport, it also poses unique risks. The use of sharp equipment like ice axes and crampons increases the risk of injury in the event of a fall. Climbers must be vigilant about their technique and safety measures, including wearing a helmet and using a spotter or belayer when necessary.

Competitions

Dry-tooling has also given rise to competitive events, where climbers are challenged to complete routes of varying difficulty within a set time frame. These competitions test the climber's skill, strength, and endurance, and have helped to further popularize the sport.

Ethics

The growth of dry-tooling has sparked a debate within the climbing community about the ethics of using ice climbing equipment on rock, especially in areas where traditional rock climbing is popular. Concerns include damage to the rock surface from the tools, as well as the potential for conflict with rock climbers. As a result, many areas have designated specific routes or crags for dry-tooling to minimize impact and reduce conflicts.