Fustian

Textile Samples - Fustian, Linen and Moleskin

Cordsamt 6

TM158 Fustian Loom

Fustian is a term used to describe a variety of heavy woven, textile fabrics, primarily made from cotton, renowned for their durability and warmth. Historically, fustian was a fabric of great importance, utilized for a wide range of purposes, from clothing for the working class to the luxurious attire of the nobility. Over time, the term has evolved to encompass a range of related fabrics, including Corduroy and Velveteen, both of which are characterized by their distinctive raised ribs or 'wales'.

History

The origins of fustian can be traced back to the medieval period, with the fabric initially being produced in the Egyptian city of Fustat, from which it derives its name. Fustat was a renowned center for cotton production and trade, and the fabric quickly gained popularity across Europe. By the 13th century, fustian was being manufactured in several European countries, including Italy and Germany, but it was in England, particularly in the Lancashire region, where fustian production truly flourished during the Industrial Revolution.

Manufacture

The traditional manufacturing process of fustian involves weaving a linen warp with a cotton weft. The resulting fabric is then brushed, singed, and sheared to create its characteristic soft, yet robust texture. Modern fustians, however, are typically made entirely of cotton, and technological advancements have significantly altered the production process, making it more efficient and allowing for a greater variety of textures and weights.

Types of Fustian

Several types of fustian have been developed over the centuries, each with its unique characteristics:

• Corduroy is perhaps the most widely recognized form of fustian today. It is distinguished by its pattern of parallel cords or wales.
• Velveteen resembles Velvet in texture but is made from cotton, making it a more affordable alternative.
• Moleskin is a heavy, durable fabric with a soft, brushed surface, traditionally used in workwear.

Uses

Historically, fustian was used for a wide range of purposes, from clothing for the working class to bed hangings and upholstery. Its durability made it an ideal choice for workwear, while its texture and appearance lent itself to more decorative uses. Today, fustian fabrics, particularly corduroy and velveteen, are popular in fashion for both clothing and accessories. Moleskin continues to be used in workwear and for outdoor clothing due to its durability and warmth.

Cultural Significance

Fustian has also come to have a metaphorical meaning in the English language, representing pompous, inflated language, or writing. This secondary definition reflects the fabric's historical association with both the working class and the luxury of the nobility, symbolizing a blend of robustness and refinement.

Conclusion

Fustian fabrics have played a significant role in the history of textiles, evolving from a single, specific fabric to a broad category encompassing several types of durable, woven cotton textiles. Despite changes in manufacturing techniques and fashion trends, fustian remains a popular choice for a wide range of applications, testament to its enduring appeal.