Jack Durrance

Jack Durrance

Jack Durrance, pioneering American rock climber
Name	Jack Durrance
Birth name
Birth date	July 20, 1912
Birth place	Los Angeles, California, USA
Death date	November 7, 2003
Death place	Boulder, Colorado, USA
Alma mater
Occupation	Physician, Rock Climber
Years active
Organization
Known for
Notable works
Spouse(s)
Website

Jack Durrance (July 20, 1912 – November 7, 2003) was a pioneering American rock climber and physician, known for his significant contributions to the development of climbing techniques and his notable ascents in the 1930s and 1940s. Durrance was instrumental in advancing the sport of rock climbing in the United States and is remembered for his first ascents and innovative climbing routes.

Early Life and Education

Jack Durrance was born in Los Angeles, California, and developed an interest in climbing during his youth. He attended Dartmouth College, where he became an active member of the Dartmouth Outing Club. His passion for climbing grew during his college years, leading him to pursue more challenging climbs.

After graduating from Dartmouth, Durrance attended Harvard Medical School, where he earned his medical degree. Despite the demands of his medical studies, he continued to climb and explore new routes.

Climbing Achievements

Durrance is best known for his pioneering climbs in the Grand Teton National Park and the Devils Tower National Monument.

Grand Teton

In 1931, Durrance made one of the first ascents of the Grand Teton, the highest peak in the Teton Range. His route, known as the "Durrance Route," became a classic climb and is still popular among climbers today.

Devils Tower

In 1938, Durrance led the second ascent of the Devils Tower in Wyoming, establishing the "Durrance Route," which remains one of the most popular routes on the tower. This climb was significant for its technical difficulty and the innovative use of pitons, which were relatively new to American climbers at the time.

Medical Career

After completing his medical education, Durrance served as a physician in the United States Army during World War II. Following the war, he practiced medicine in Boulder, Colorado, where he continued to climb and contribute to the climbing community.

Legacy

Jack Durrance's contributions to rock climbing are remembered through the routes he established and the techniques he helped popularize. His climbs are considered classics and continue to challenge and inspire climbers around the world.

Also see

• Rock Climbing
• Grand Teton National Park
• Devils Tower National Monument
• Dartmouth Outing Club