Alexander Kellas

Alexander Mitchell Kellas

Alexander Mitchell Kellas (21 June 1868 – 5 June 1921) was a Scottish chemist and mountaineer known for his pioneering work in high-altitude physiology and his early attempts to climb Mount Everest.

Early Life and Education

Kellas was born in Aberdeen, Scotland. He attended Aberdeen Grammar School and later studied at the University of Aberdeen, where he earned a degree in chemistry. He continued his education at the University of London, obtaining a doctorate in physical chemistry.

Career

Kellas worked as a lecturer in chemistry at the Middlesex Hospital Medical School in London. His research focused on the physiological effects of high altitude, particularly the body's ability to acclimatize to low oxygen levels. He conducted numerous experiments and published several papers on the subject.

Mountaineering

Kellas was an avid mountaineer and made significant contributions to the exploration of the Himalayas. He was one of the first to suggest that Mount Everest could be climbed without supplemental oxygen, based on his studies of high-altitude physiology. Kellas participated in several expeditions to the Himalayas, including attempts to climb Kangchenjunga and Kamet.

Himalayan Expeditions

Kellas's most notable expeditions include:

• 1907: First attempt on Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.
• 1911: Exploration of the Garhwal Himalaya and ascent of Kamet.
• 1920-1921: Participation in the first reconnaissance expedition to Mount Everest organized by the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club.

Death

Kellas died on 5 June 1921 during the 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. He collapsed and died near the Tibetan village of Kampa Dzong, likely due to the physical strain and high altitude.

Legacy

Kellas's work laid the foundation for future high-altitude research and mountaineering. His studies on acclimatization and the effects of low oxygen levels remain influential in the fields of physiology and mountaineering.

See Also

• Mount Everest
• High-altitude medicine
• Royal Geographical Society
• Alpine Club